Anubias Nana, Anubias Nana Petite & Barteri: Care, Propagation & Planting

Anubias Nana Petite is an even smaller cultivar of Anubias Nana, perfect for tight spaces or foreground positioning in smaller tanks.

Anubias Barteri is the larger parent species, with leaves that can reach up to 12 inches (30 cm), and is better suited to mid-ground or background placement.

Optimal Conditions for Anubias Nana, Petite & Barteri

Anubias thrive across a wide temperature and pH range, which is part of what makes them so beginner-friendly:

• Temperature: 72-80°F (22-25°C)
• pH: 5.5-9.0 (they prefer slightly alkaline to neutral, around 6.0-7.5)

• Water hardness: 50-150 ppm (they're adaptable but do prefer harder water)
• Lighting: Low to moderate; they do not need high light and actually perform better under subdued conditions

Because Anubias originate from African waters, they naturally prefer slightly more alkaline conditions, but they're forgiving enough to adjust to most community tank parameters.

How to Plant and Anchor Anubias Nana Properly

The most common mistake when planting Anubias is burying the rhizome-this will cause it to rot and eventually kill the plant. The rhizome must always remain exposed to the water column.

Planting in Substrate

• Place the Anubias on top of your substrate or slightly into it, ensuring only the roots are buried.
• Leave the rhizome (the horizontal fleshy stem) completely uncovered.
• Gently arrange the roots into the substrate if desired, but the rhizome itself should sit above the surface.

Mounting to Hardscape

One of the best features of Anubias is that you can attach it to wood, rocks, or tank décor instead of planting it traditionally. This works because the plant draws nutrients from the water column and doesn't rely on being rooted in substrate.

Three mounting methods:

• Zip ties - Hold the plant firmly against wood or rock until the rhizome attaches naturally. They're effective but visually obvious.
• Cotton thread - Less conspicuous than zip ties and still effective. It dissolves over time as the plant establishes, so re-tie or replace as needed.
• Super glue - Quick and easy; apply a small amount to the rhizome and press it against the hardscape. Ensure you use aquarium-safe glue if you're concerned, though standard cyanoacrylate is inert once cured.

After a few weeks to months, the rhizome will develop a natural bond and the plant will anchor itself without help.

Growth Rate and Nutrient Needs

Anubias are slow growers, which is both a blessing and a curse:

Blessing: They don't require high nutrient levels or frequent fertilization, making them low-maintenance and resistant to algae issues common in fast-growing plants.

Curse: If you're looking for rapid tank transformation, Anubias won't get you there quickly. Patience is required.

Anubias are water column feeders, meaning they draw most nutrients directly from the water. However, they also benefit from nutrient-rich substrate and occasional liquid fertilizer if your tank's bioload is light. In an established community tank with regular water changes, supplemental fertilizer is often unnecessary.

Preventing Algae on Anubias Leaves

Algae on Anubias leaves is frustrating but entirely preventable. When algae develops on Anubias, it usually signals one or both of these conditions:

• Too much light - More light than the slow-growing Anubias can utilize
• Excess nutrients - Too much nitrogen or phosphorus that the plant can't consume fast enough

Since Anubias grows slowly, it doesn't soak up excess nutrients quickly, so algae capitalizes on them instead.

How to Prevent Algae Growth

• Reduce lighting - Lower your light intensity or duration. Anubias thrives under subdued conditions; you don't need bright light for this plant.
• Add fast-growing plants - Introduce floating plants like dwarf water lettuce or duckweed to compete for excess nutrients. Fast-growing floaters are nutrient vacuums and will also shade your Anubias, further reducing algae pressure.
• Regular water changes - Remove excess nutrients through consistent, moderate water changes (25-50% weekly).
• Limit fertilizer - If you're dosing liquid fertilizer, reduce or skip it if algae appears.

Black algae (black beard algae) is particularly stubborn on slow-growing plants. If it develops, manually remove affected leaves with sterilized scissors and implement the above strategies.

How to Propagate Anubias Nana

Propagating Anubias is straightforward and one of the easiest ways to multiply your plants or share them with others.

Step-by-Step Propagation

• Use sharp, sterilized scissors. Dull scissors crush the rhizome, inviting rot and disease. Sterilize with rubbing alcohol or flame before cutting.
• Identify the rhizome. The rhizome is the thick, horizontal stem running through the center of the plant. Leaves emerge from the top; roots emerge from the bottom.
• Make clean cuts. Cut the rhizome into sections, ensuring each section has at least 3 leaves on each side of the cut. More leaves per section means faster, healthier regrowth.
• Plant or mount the sections. Treat each piece as you would a new plant-either plant it into substrate (rhizome exposed) or mount it to hardscape.
• Wait for new growth. Within 2-4 weeks, new shoots will emerge from the cut portions of the rhizome, and you'll have multiple plants from one.

The beauty of this method is that both the original plant and the cut section continue to grow. There's no waste, and you can gradually expand your collection over time.

Anubias Barteri: The Larger Sibling

Anubias Barteri is ideal if you want a more substantial foreground or mid-ground plant. It's slower-growing than many stem plants but faster than some moss species, and its large leaves (up to 12 inches) create visual impact even as they mature slowly.

Care for Anubias Barteri:

• Preferred temperature range: 72-77°F (22-25°C)
• Hard water (100-150 mg/L) around neutral pH (6.0-7.5)
• Thrive under subdued lighting
• Benefit from substrate fertilizer in nutrient-poor tanks
• Rhizome must remain exposed (same as Anubias Nana)
• Can be anchored to bogwood or rock just like Anubias Nana

Barteri occasionally produces a spathe flower (a modified leaf structure) that emerges above the waterline, but viable seed production is rare in aquarium conditions. The flower is interesting to observe but won't lead to propagation via seed.

Common Issues and Troubleshooting

Plant Melt

When you first introduce a new Anubias, it's common to see older leaves melt or dissolve-this is the plant adjusting to the new aquarium environment. Don't panic. Keep conditions stable and within the ranges above, and new, healthy leaves will emerge within a few weeks.

Stunted Growth or Yellowing

If Anubias stops growing or leaves yellow, consider:

• Insufficient lighting - While they tolerate low light, some light is needed. Aim for 6-8 hours daily.
• Low nutrients - Add a comprehensive liquid fertilizer or substrate additive.
• Poor water circulation - Ensure moderate flow around the plant to prevent dead zones.

Rhizome Rot

The leading cause of rhizome rot is burying the rhizome in substrate. Always ensure the rhizome sits above the substrate surface. If rot has begun, carefully trim away the dark, mushy portions with a sterilized blade, re-expose the healthy rhizome, and ensure the plant has good water flow.

Using Anubias in Aquascaping

Anubias pairs well with other beginner-friendly plants and fits into almost any aquascaping style. Because of their low-light tolerance and slow growth, they're excellent for:

• Foreground/midground placement (especially Nana Petite)
• Anchoring to driftwood or rock for natural-looking layouts
• Creating texture in minimalist or Iwagumi-style tanks
• Bonsai-style forms - Many aquarists train Anubias by carefully anchoring and trimming to create miniature tree-like shapes

Bottom Line

Anubias Nana, Anubias Nana Petite, and Anubias Barteri are among the most reliable plants you can keep. They're forgiving of beginner mistakes, adaptable to varied tank conditions, and offer creative flexibility in planting and mounting options. Avoid burying the rhizome, prevent algae by controlling light and nutrients, and don't expect rapid growth-embrace their slow, steady pace instead. With these straightforward care guidelines, you'll have thriving Anubias that last for years.