Anubias Barteri Care: Rhizome Attachment, Low Light, and Algae Control

Photo by Tocekas on Openverse (CC BY-SA 3.0)
Anubias barteri is an undemanding, leathery-leafed epiphyte native to the shaded rivers, rocky streams, and waterfalls of West Africa. Featuring thick horizontal rhizomes, sturdy anchor roots, and broad, dark-green leaves, it is practically indestructible once established in an aquarium. For ecological background, see the Wikipedia summary on Anubias barteri.
Because of its tough, fibrous leaf structure, herbivorous fish like goldfish, silver dollars, and cichlids rarely eat it, making it the premier plant choice for active community tanks. However, its slow metabolism makes it susceptible to specific cultural errors, notably rhizome burial and green spot algae colonization. Following basic mounting and lighting principles ensures steady growth.
Water Parameters and Low-Light Tolerance
Anubias barteri thrives across an extraordinarily wide array of water parameters. It grows submersed in fully flooded aquariums and emersed in high-humidity paludariums or terrariums:
| Parameter | Recommended Range | Ideal Target | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 72-82°F (22-28°C) | 75°F (24°C) | Broad tropical comfort zone |
| pH Level | 6.0-8.0 | 6.8-7.4 | Adaptable to both soft and hard water |
| General Hardness (GH) | 3-18 dGH | 6-12 dGH | Dissolved minerals support leaf thickness |
| Carbonate Hardness (KH) | 2-10 dKH | 3-6 dKH | Stable buffer protects against pH dips |
| Lighting (PAR) | Very Low to Low (10-25 PAR) | 15-20 PAR | Shaded zones prevent leaf algae |
| Growth Rate | Very Slow | 1-2 new leaves per month | Very low nutrient demand |
Unlike delicate stem plants that perish in dim corners, Anubias prefers low-light environments. When exposed to bright, high-intensity LED light fixtures, its slow-growing leaves become prime targets for stubborn green spot algae (Choanocystis) and brush algae. For similar low-light companions, see our care guide on anubias nana plant care as well as our overview of low light aquarium plants.
Mounting Techniques: The Golden Rule of the Rhizome
The thick, horizontal green stem from which leaves and roots sprout is called the rhizome. This organ stores carbohydrates and requires continuous water circulation to respire. The primary cause of Anubias mortality is burying the rhizome in gravel, sand, or aqua soil. Deprived of oxygen, anaerobic bacteria attack the buried tissue, turning it to mush.
Attach Anubias as an epiphyte using one of these methods:
- Cyanoacrylate Super Glue: Standard gel super glue (ethyl or methyl cyanoacrylate) cures instantly in water and is 100% non-toxic to fish and shrimp. Dab a small drop of gel onto the rhizome, press it firmly against dry driftwood or porous rock for twenty seconds, and submerge it.
- Cotton Thread: Wrap dark cotton sewing thread around the rhizome and hardscape. Over four to six weeks, the plant sends out adventitious anchor roots that grip the crevices of the wood. The cotton thread eventually rots away naturally after the roots take hold.
- Wedging into Crevices: Gently tuck the rhizome into natural notches between rocks or driftwood forks without any fasteners.
If you prefer placing Anubias at the substrate level, insert only the trailing white roots into the sand, leaving the entire horizontal rhizome elevated on top of the substrate.
Algae Management and Propagation
Because Anubias leaves can persist for one to two years without being replaced, they accumulate surface biofilms and spot algae over time. To protect foliage:
- Positioning: Place Anubias beneath the shadow of taller plants, under driftwood overhangs, or beneath a canopy of floating plants that filter overhead light.
- Water Circulation: Maintain gentle water movement across the leaves to prevent organic debris and detritus from settling on the broad blades.
- Spot Treatment: If leaves become coated in black beard algae or green spot algae, remove the plant from the tank and mist the leaves with a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for three minutes, avoiding the delicate roots. Rinse thoroughly with clean tank water before returning it to the aquarium.
Propagating Anubias barteri is simple. When the rhizome reaches several inches in length and supports at least eight to ten leaves, use a sterilized razor blade to sever the rhizome into two sections, ensuring each piece retains at least three to four healthy leaves and several roots. Both halves will continue growing independently, making it an economical plant to multiply alongside regular routines for how often to do aquarium water changes.
Water Flow, Grazing Fish, and Long-Term Health
Because Anubias barteri grows at a relaxed metabolic pace, keeping leaves clean is essential for ongoing photosynthesis. Moderate water flow past the broad leaf surfaces prevents detritus and mulm from settling on the blades, reducing the likelihood of black beard algae colonization. Its tough, fibrous leaf structure makes it uniquely suited for tanks housing herbivorous species like silver dollars, African cichlids, or large plecos that devour softer stem plants. For best results, place Anubias in midground hardscape forks where it receives indirect water movement from your main filtration unit. Its slow growth habit also means it consumes minimal nutrients from the water column, making it remarkably forgiving in tanks with modest maintenance schedules.
Frequently asked questions
Can I plant Anubias barteri directly into gravel or sand?+
You can bury the thin white feeder roots into gravel or sand, but the thick green horizontal stem called the rhizome must remain completely exposed to the water column. If the rhizome is buried beneath substrate, it suffocates and rots within weeks.
What is the best way to attach Anubias barteri to driftwood or rocks?+
Attach the rhizome using cyanoacrylate gel super glue, black cotton thread, or thin fishing line. Within 4 to 6 weeks, the plant produces natural clasping roots that grip the pores of wood and stone, after which thread can be removed.
Why do my Anubias leaves have green spot algae all over them?+
Anubias produces slow-growing leaves that persist for months. Under bright, direct lighting, green spot algae easily colonizes the durable leaf blades. Move the plant to shaded zones beneath floating plants or tall stems to eliminate spot algae.
Does Anubias barteri need liquid fertilizer or root tabs?+
Because Anubias is an epiphyte that absorbs nutrients directly from open water, liquid water column fertilizers are far more effective than substrate root tabs. A standard weekly all-in-one liquid fertilizer supplies all required nutrients.
What is Anubias rhizome rot and how do you treat it?+
Rhizome rot is an aggressive bacterial infection that turns the firm green rhizome into soft, foul-smelling mush. To save the plant, immediately cut away all soft mushy sections with a razor blade, leaving only clean firm green tissue, and treat with a 3% hydrogen peroxide dip.




